Thermal Socks

These are the first socks I ever knit. To date they are the only socks I have ever finished. I found the pattern here. I knit these using Jo Sharpe Cashmerino, but I think this was a mistake. I wore the socks infrequently and washed them by hand, but a hole wore in the pad of the foot anyway. I think that the yarn I used was too soft for socks. The socks have been accidentally washed and dryed in the dryer felted since I knit them, so the picture doesn't show the original project. I am giving them to my friend Terra in hopes that her 5 year old can wear them. I certainly can't!

I really enjoyed this pattern as well and I hope to knit it again. I can't wait to see how it will look next time. When I knit these, I wrapped my working yarn around the needle in such away that every knit stitch was twisted. It wasn't until several projects later that I learned my error. Believe you me, my gauge changed DRASTICALLY once I figured that out.

Once again, I am posting the pattern here incase the website disappears.

Thermal Socks by Linda

1 5 ounce ball (150g) worsted yarn, preferably wool or a wool blend
Set of 4 dpn's, 3.5 mm suggested
Fits woman's shoe size 9 (Canadian)

Cast on 36 sts, arrange stitches 12/12/12.
Work 18 rounds of k1 p1 ribbing.
Work one round plain knitting, evenly increasing number of stitches to 44. Rearrange sts to 16/12/16.
Thermal Stitch in the Round is a four stitch, four row pattern repeat, see chart below: k p p k
k p p k
p p k k
p p k k <-- begin here, work right to left
Work thermal stitch for 8 repeats (or more for a longer sock). Rearrange sts 12/20/12 in preparation to work heel flap.
Heel Flap - *Slip1, k1*, repeat across 12 sts, turn.
Slip first st, purl across remaining 11 sts, purl across another 12 sts. Leave remaining sts from round on spare ndl or st holder to be worked later.
*Slip 1, knit 1*, repeat across the 24 sts.
Slip first st, purl across the other 23 sts.
Repeat these two rows 22 times altogether, end right side facing.
Work 15 sts in pattern established for heel flap, k2tog, k1, turn (leaves 6 sts unworked at end of ndl).
Slip first st, purl 7 sts, p2tog, p1, turn.
Slip first st, work 8 sts in pattern, k2tog, k1, turn.
Slip first st, purl 9 sts, p2tog, p1, turn.
Slip first st, work 10 sts in pattern, k2tog, k1, turn.
Slip first st, purl 11 sts, p2tog, p1, turn.
Slip first st, work 12 sts in pattern, k2tog, k1, turn.
Slip first st, purl 13 sts, p2tog, p1, turn. You should now have reduced those 24 sts down to 16 sts in total.
K2tog, work next 12 sts in pattern established, k2tog (14 sts).
Onto same ndl, pick up and knit 13 sts along side of heel flap, pick up a st in space between ndl 1 and ndl 2. On ndl 2, work first row of thermal st on the 20 instep sts (which were set aside earlier). On ndl 3, pick up a st in the space between ndl 2 and ndl 3, pick up 13 sts along other side of heel flap. Also onto ndl 3, knit the first 7 sts from ndl 1. Sts now number 21/20/21.
Work one round even (without decreasing), working row 2 of Thermal St on the 20 sts on ndl 2, and knitting plain stocking st on ndls 1 and 3.
Knit to within last 3 sts on first needle, knit 2 tog, k1. Work thermal st across 2nd ndl. On 3rd ndl, k1, k2tog tbl (or ssk), knit to end of needle. Stitches will number 20/20/20.
Work one round even as above.
Continue working these two rounds til sts number 11/20/11.
Work without any further decreases til you're about 40 rows from the edge of the heel flap, ending with a round where the instep sts begin with k1, p1, p1, k1. This should be about 6 or 6 1/2 inches from the edge of the heel flap.
Toe Decrease - The toe area is worked in the same st used on the heel (s1, k1 across). Decreases are worked on the plain knitted rounds.
Knit to within last 3 sts on first needle, knit 2 tog, k1. Knit across 2nd ndl. 3rd ndl, k1, k2tog, knit to end of ndl. Stitches will number 10/20/10.
Work one round even, but in heel st, beginning with slip 1.
Knit to within last 3 sts on first needle, knit 2 tog, k1. On 2nd ndl, K1, k2tog tbl (or ssk), knit to within last 3 sts on first needle, knit 2 tog, k1. 3rd ndl, k1, k2tog, knit to end of ndl. Stitches will number 9/18/9.
Work one round even (without decreasing), beginning with the appropriate st (slip or knit) which will line up the main part of the toe with the slipped and knitted sts from 2 rows below.
Repeat these last two rounds til sts number 5/10/5, but do not work an even round after your last decrease round. Knit the 5 sts from ndl 1 onto ndl 3, graft toe closed.

For a slight variation, work the middle 12 to 16 sts of the sole in the same st used for the heel, it's a bit more durable than plain stocking st.
A 5 oz ball of the yarn I used just barely makes one pair of socks. You may need to use a little bit from a second ball, or use a bit of a coordinating colour for the cuff, heel and toe.

Cabled Hat

This is the cabled hat from Knitty. I used this yarn. I actually followed a pattern this time. Except for the final decreases. But that was only because I didn't have the pattern with me when I got to that part. This pattern was a lot of fun to knit and I plan on doing it (or some verson of it) again.



This is me actually wearing the hat. I am attempting to take my own picture in the bathroom mirror, but I have yet to get the hang of that. I know you can't see any details of the hat in the picture, but I thought it would be fun to post it anyway.

This is the pattern from Knitty in case they take it off there site.

CORONET
by Alexandra Virgiel

A simple stocking cap with a pretty cabled band, this pattern is quick to knit up and would make a lovely gift or an easy first cabling project.
The turned-up brim makes this hat extra warm over the ears. The brim is knit first as a long strip and made into a circle, then stitches are picked up from the edge for the remainder of the hat and worked in the round.
model/photo: A. Virgiel
SIZE
Adult S[M, L]

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Circumference: 20.5[22, 23.5] inches

MATERIALS
[MC] Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride Worsted [85% wool, 15% mohair, 190 yd/173m per 113g skein]; color: M-56 Clematis, 1 skein
1 set US #8/5mm double-pointed needles 1 16-inch US #8/5mm circular needle (optional) 1 set US #8/5mm straight needles (optional) Cable needle Tapestry needle

GAUGE
17 sts / 28 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

STITCHES
Braided Cable
Adapted from The Complete Book of Stitchery, by Mildred Graves Ryan.
Row 1: K2, p2, k9, p2, k2.
Row 2: P2, k2, p9, k2, p2.
Row 3: K2, p2, sl next 3 sts onto cable needle leaving needle in front of work, k3, k 3 sts from cable needle, k3, p2, k2.
Row 4: Repeat second row.
Row 5: Repeat first row.
Row 6: Repeat second row.
Row 7: K2, p2, k3, sl next 3 sts onto cable needle leaving cable needle in back of work, k3, K3 sts from cable needle, p2, k2.
Row 8: Repeat second row.

DIRECTIONS
Cabled Band
Using straight needles or two double-pointed needles, CO 17 sts with a provisional cast on. Work 16[17, 18] repetitions of Braided Cable pattern, ending final repetition on row 7 of pattern. Do not bind off. Unravel provisional cast on and graft [kitchener stitch] the two ends of the band together.
Hat Body
With wrong side of band facing and using circular or double-pointed needles, pick up 84[90, 96] sts from edge of band, approximately 2 sts for every 3 rows. Join and p 1 rnd.Switch to St st and work even until piece measures 8.5[9, 9.5] in. from bottom edge of band.
Decrease for top as follows:
[If using circular needle, switch to double-pointed needles when decreases make circular needle unwieldy.]
Next round: K4, k2tog. Repeat.
K 1 rnd even.
Next round: K3, k2tog. Repeat.
K 1 rnds even.
Next round: K2, k2tog. Repeat.
K 1 rnd even.
Next round: K0[1, 0]. *K2tog. Repeat from * around.
K 1 rnd even.
Next round: K1[1, 0]. *K2tog. Repeat from * around.
Next round: K1[0, 0]. *K2tog. Repeat from * around.
Cut yarn, thread through remaining 6 sts, gather and tie off.

Jenny's Scarf

This is the very first thing I ever knitted. You can tell by the change in color pattern that it was 2 skeins of yarn. Oh well, after this I learned to check the dye lot!

Hickory's Hat

Sean with Scarf